The 'upper part of the back and the scapulars shoulder feathers are greenish gray. The inner secondaries shorter, upper "arm" feathers are similarly colored, with the outer secondaries shorter, upper "arm" feathers being cobalt-blue.
The lower surface of the flight feathers is bluish green. The underparts are green, with a prominent gray suffusion on the sides of the breast and flanks. The tail feathers are a dull shade of green on their upper surface, and dusky beneath. The beak is pale pinkish white; the legs pinkish; and the irises dark brown.
Those areas that are blue in the male are emerald green in the female, although some individuals retain a slight blue suffusion behind their edges, and occasionally on the rump as well. They are a purer shade of green overall, with less grayish suffusion, most noticeably over the wings.
Females are generally but not always slightly smaller in size. Young birds resemble adults, but have a pinker beak on fledging.
They can be sexed at this stage although young cocks are less colorful than adults. The area of blue behind the eyes is reduced, as is that on the wings. Additionally, the lower back and rump are of a bluish green shade, rather than being pure blue.
David Alderton ]. In the wild, they feed on seeds, berries, cactus and Tamarindus fruits, and other plant material. It is suspected that they also take small insects. Captive birds are usually provided a dry seed mix with safflower and hemp seed, smaller amounts of oats, buckwheat and limited sunflower seed. Spray millets are usually cherished as well. In addition, they should be fed green leaves such as: Swiss chard, lettuce, dandelion, chickweed and seeding grasses. When rearing young, hard-boiled egg, wholegrain bread, low-fat cheese and carrots - all ground to crumbly consistency - will help the parents feed the chicks.
Apple and other fruits are a nutritious addition as well. Pacific Parrotlets are excellent breeders and highly dedicated parents. They are commonly used as foster parents to incubate eggs and raise the chicks of other parrotlet species.
In the wild, they usually nest in cavities of trees or fence posts; or they may over the abandoned nests of other cavity nesting birds. The average clutch consists of 4 - 6 glossy white eggs that are incubated for about 18 days.
Most new parents can run into problems, such as baby neglect, not sitting on the eggs long enough, even not feeding the babies. It may take 2 to 3 clutches for the parents to learn how to be a good parent to their offspring so careful observation must be exercised. Even if the first clutch dies the parent should do a wonderful job with the second and third clutch so have patience and do not be discouraged.
Give them an undisturbed area and they will usually produce healthy babies. In a good environment, they may produce as much as 3 to 4 clutches per year. At Xtreem Parrotlets, we have great success in breeding our birds in cages with the dimensions of 14 x 14 x 14, with two perches in the cage.
The perches must be sturdily attached to the cage as infertility can come from wobbly perches. Natural wood perches should be used so the bird can exercise its feet. Most baby parrotlets will wean by eight weeks, although some can take as long as 10 weeks. The key is to remain patient. When selecting the proper cage for your parrotlet, it is important the cage be usable for the owner and the bird. The cage should be large enough to house a few toys, food and water bowls, and the perches.
Because parrotlets are small, a nice sized parakeet cage, lovebird, or cockatiel cage will do. The cage should have at least three doors. One door should hold the food bowl, the other door should hold the water bowl, and the third door should allow the owner easy access to the bird and toys. In addition, the cage should also have a few perches that are different in size.
These perches will allow a parrot to exercise its feet. Toys should be suspended from the top of the cage as these birds love to hang upside down and swing. Parrotlets are very active for their size and will spend most of their time exploring their cage.
The bottom of the cage should have a grill installed. Lastly, a good cage will have a tray that can easily be removed and cleaned. It is important this grill be removed daily for cleaning as parrotlets are very clean animals and can easily get sick if the cage is not properly maintained. Though parrotlets are small, they eat a lot. These birds are constantly on the move and their metabolisms are always functioning at a high level. Because of this, high calorie food items should be placed into the bowls such as sunflower seeds, safflower seeds, and millet.
Additionally, a healthy pellet diet needs to be included as most provide the parrotlet with nutrients the bird needs to remain healthy. Parrotlets enjoy a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables. Because these parrots do not manipulate their food with one hand, the owner should cut the food into smaller pieces. Daily fresh greens such a kale, spinach, dandelion leaves, or carrot tops can be given. Fruits should be given as well. Cutting smaller piece of an apple, kiwi, mango, or pear will allow the bird to maneuver the fruit as they eat it.
Many owners will get creative and make a salad that the parrots will enjoy. If the parrotlet is fed a healthy diet and taken to the vet regularly, parrotlet owners can expect their parrots to live between 15 to 20 years. We're always looking for parrot photos to accompany our articles. If you would like your parrot photos posted on this site, please e-mail them to us.
Please ensure your name is included in your email so we many copyright the photo correctly. We look forward to your submissions. Click here to do so. Home Birds Forum Contact. Subscribe to our Newsletter. Follow Us. Contact Us. Looking to contact us or report an error? The birds do not need a nesting box. However simply removing the nesting box will not prevent breeding all together. Statistically speaking removing it will reduce the number of eggs layed.
The female may continue to lay the occasional fertilized egg. To prevent an over population of captive birds, you will need to render the egg infertile. Some people are sensitive to the destruction of a living embryo. My position id that if you do it within the first few days of laying, there is no nervous system to cause suffering.
You must provide a replacement, ether the original egg after it is rendered infertile heat addling or a dummy egg. JLcribber has experience preventing mating birds from producing young. Avenue Veteran. Parrotlets pretty much only use the box for breeding. If you saw them mating it does not automatically mean that eggs are coming right away. However, if she does lay then you have a good chance of the eggs being fertile if you have seen mating.
Interest in the box is a good sign. Parrotlets should only be allowed clutches a year and never more than two clutches without a break. Many birds lay multiple clutches in a season in the wild.
I always let mine double clutch when I had them and then gave them several months without a box. So perhaps 2 clutches then a six month break or 1 clutch with a 3 month break. Either way it works out to not more than three a year if you are handfeeding babies. To encourage them to breed you should, install the box, give 14 hours of light and offer an abundance of food they should always have leftovers so they know that there is plenty of food for babies.
If they are sleeping near the box, they have claimed it. The hen won't go into it until she is close to laying. However, just because they are having sex, doesn't mean she will actually lay this time. My lovies mate constantly, but the hen deliberately unseats the COCK before the ultimate deed is done, so her eggs are rarely fertile.
During the summer, they mate but produce no eggs; I only see eggs January thru April. Blue, the hen, calls all the shots, and poor Harley is literally hen pecked.
0コメント